Hi guys.new to crawlers but not to RC.my friend lent me an older Axial AX10 Scorpion with a Novak Goat crawler setup and I have been having a blast with it so I had to get my own. Made a trade for one that looks like it will work well but I will be needing to get a better servo.the AX10 I've been driving has a Hitec low voltage with 330ish oz-in of torque.seems to be enough as I've been able to get the thing out of some pretty crazy spots. I'm having trouble deciding on which servo to get for my crawler.The esc has a 6v BEC which Im noticing seems common for crawler esc's.If I'm going to spend a bunch of $ on a good servo I would like to get something I could use in one of my 1/8 nitro buggies down the road.was thinking I could get a protek 130t but at 6v's it is only 280oz.was tempted to just get a protek 170t as Ive been using the 170's in my nitro buggy and they are great but then my servo will be the most expensive part of my crawler. What are you guys running for servos and what is the minimum amount of torque I should be looking for.will be driving on big sandstone rocks that have good grip and lots of cracks that wheels can get wedged in. Thanks for the help. My favorite servo has always been the the jr z9100t for a crawler.
The hitec hs7954 has also been a great servo for me and a little less pricey. Ive tried the ebay or???? Cheap hi torque servos like the tower pro 995 and 996 and the are ok but always hit or miss whether they work and or how long. Usually die quick if there going to die. Best thing to do in my opinion if your going to run a bigger badder servo is. Get a castle or other bec so not to try and run a power hungry servo off of the esc.
Discussion pro modeler servos Onboard Electronics. That doesn't seem too slow to me. And they do look good but with a full aluminum case, brushless motors, and ti gears, along with over 500 oz of torque I think there's more here than looks.
I have used many of the turnigy 3a 5v/6v ones at less than $4 and they have been great for running just a servo. Funny because the 170s that is my throttle servo in my nitro started acting up yesterday.not sure if it was a radio/receiver issue or the actual servo.rebound the radio and it worked fine after but was intermittent before Instead of starting a new thread maybe you guys could school me a bit on a few things.the crawler I've been using is an AX10 scorpion. Did the Wraith replace the ax10 and if so is it just as capable? Seems like there are allot of rock racers and scalers now, dont see allot of crazy buggies.I have zero interest in going fast.I have my race cars for that.just want to do technical gnarly rocks.where I live is awesome for that. That being said I was going to pick up a set of tires.Proline chisels look like that will work ok?? The ax10 has Proline Hammers on it that have been working good but those look to be discontinued.do you guys do any trimming or anything to the inserts? Funny because the 170s that is my throttle servo in my nitro started acting up yesterday.not sure if it was a radio/receiver issue or the actual servo.rebound the radio and it worked fine after but was intermittent before Instead of starting a new thread maybe you guys could school me a bit on a few things.the crawler I've been using is an AX10 scorpion.
Did the Wraith replace the ax10 and if so is it just as capable? Seems like there are allot of rock racers and scalers now, dont see allot of crazy buggies.I have zero interest in going fast.I have my race cars for that.just want to do technical gnarly rocks.where I live is awesome for that. That being said I was going to pick up a set of tires.Proline chisels look like that will work ok?? The ax10 has Proline Hammers on it that have been working good but those look to be discontinued.do you guys do any trimming or anything to the inserts?
ThanksWraith is a rock racer, ax10 is a comp crawler. Totally different.
I don't have an ax10, but have been considering building an ar60 axled shafty. I'm more into scalers and rock racers, but do have a nicely built up bully2 based 2.2 pro. Chisels and hammers are pretty rubbish. Generally the best 2.2 crawling tires are ottsix voodoo comps. Combine with crawler innovations double deuce foams. Trimming foams isnt really done any more.
![Pro Modeler Servos Pro Modeler Servos](http://www.genesishobby.com/images/web-S160-gears.jpg)
The most you'll see is regular vs comp cut inner foams, but that's done at the factory. Other popular comp tires are rc4wd bully comp and hotbodies rovers and Sedonas. The latter do need a bit of modifying to work the best they can, trimming lugs and shaving sidewalls is often done, as well as narrowing if you have a nice lightweight rig. Wraith is a rock racer, ax10 is a comp crawler. Totally different. I don't have an ax10, but have been considering building an ar60 axled shafty. I'm more into scalers and rock racers, but do have a nicely built up bully2 based 2.2 pro.
![Pro Modeler Servos Pro Modeler Servos](http://www.promodeler.com/1400x/1400x600-Models/1400x600-MODELS-Slick-580-DS160CLHV.jpg)
Chisels and hammers are pretty rubbish. Generally the best 2.2 crawling tires are ottsix voodoo comps. Combine with crawler innovations double deuce foams. Trimming foams isnt really done any more. The most you'll see is regular vs comp cut inner foams, but that's done at the factory. Other popular comp tires are rc4wd bully comp and hotbodies rovers and Sedonas.
The latter do need a bit of modifying to work the best they can, trimming lugs and shaving sidewalls is often done, as well as narrowing if you have a nice lightweight rig.Tires are all different and there is no best tire for everyone. It all depends on the surface you are going to run on. For crawlers the go to used to be rovers or sedonas, these were replaced by pins or custom pieced together combinations of the 2. If your running outside on more of a trail surface it's really hard to beat TSL XL's. They seem to work well on a large variety of surfaces.
I have recently started using some Hyrax tires and they seem to be very good as well. The VooDoos are generally a U4 tire, not the greatest for crawling. Tires are all different and there is no best tire for everyone. It all depends on the surface you are going to run on. For crawlers the go to used to be rovers or sedonas, these were replaced by pins or custom pieced together combinations of the 2.
If your running outside on more of a trail surface it's really hard to beat TSL XL's. They seem to work well on a large variety of surfaces.
I have recently started using some Hyrax tires and they seem to be very good as well. The VooDoos are generally a U4 tire, not the greatest for crawling.I'm talking about voodoo comp tires, not their u4rc tires, which are totally different, as are their klr's. Picture for reference, they are voodoo comps.
Shiny, indeed. You guys kill me sometimes Speaking of 500-class mini-servos, we made a prototype and it works as expected. I made it the exact same dimension as others, e.g.
With the slot so we can fit the more powerful motor. The thing is, I don't like the slot.
And if I made them a little bit wider (to eliminate the slot) I don't know if they'll sell. In short, how important is the width-compatibility of 15mm? For example, in some models like a Protos 500 the elevator servo has plenty of room to fit a wider servo. But the other two servos going to the swashplate would require some fiddling with the mounting area to fit a wider servo. Simply put, if I maintain the 15mm thickness as used by others, I have to either use a smaller motor (weaker), or do what they did, slot the case to fit the motor.
And I don't like either choice. Why don't I like the slot? It's because of the potential for problems due to the open environment, e.g. Moisture can easily get in. Or in the case of some of the tiny nitro helicopters, exhaust oil can wreck havoc with the electronics. And it's not like these servos are only used in electric helicopters because they're easily powerful enough to use in 40-class model airplanes.
Add to it, the servo's motor actually operates cooler without a slot (seems counter intuitive, but it's true) because the case working as a heat sink (the real purpose of aluminum in the center section) does so more efficiently when the transfer tape makes full contact. Meanwhile, my thinking is, to heck with being the exact same as everybody else.
We'll just go our own way and make ProModeler mini-servo cases a tiny bit wider (on the order of 16.2mm vs. This lets us eliminate the slot and thus, both ensure better cooling and provide environmental integrity. Anyway, I'm open to thoughts about it. Do me a favor and check your 500-class models and share with me what you learn about the prospects of fitting slightly wider mini-servos Last thing since you like our servos, do us another favor. Tell the world.
But please don't do it just here in our Audacity-forum but in the forums of the other models you fly, e.g. A Goblin, or whatever. And especially do it in the main forum because then even more folks will be learn about your experience (and good opinion).
Finally, my thanks to you for your good opinion about our product. It's great to learn you're pleased with what we're doing. Especially because it validates the risk we took in deciding to bring them to market in the first place. Many, many thanks for your kindness. Sorry for the silence fellows but I've had a lot of supply chain issues on my plate and I've been busy working through them and about have them sorted out so I can come up for air once again. Remember, the servo business is still kinda of new for us so teething pains are not exactly unexpected.
However, at some point I will get everything running smoothly. Meanwhile, I continue to field questions regarding a mini-size servo. Here's the thing. What everybody is else is doing is shoving in a bigger motor than the case can normally accept (in order to get acceptable power). Simply put, they mill away however much space is required, which leaves the motor case exposed (the case ends up with a slot through which you can see part of the motor). What's wrong with this?
Nothing, except it compromises the integrity of the environment, e.g. The electronics can get wet (and exhaust goop can penetrate as well). I don't find this acceptable but modelers seem to accept it so it seems there's no other choice to achieve a certain amount of power. Here's my take. It's my opinion, servo dimensions aren't set in stone. After all, whoever first decided on the dimension of a mini 20 years ago (Futaba most likely) never envisioned 500-class helis and he power we would want from this class of servo.
Anyway, if there's anything you guys know about me it's this; like most of you, I'm neither hidebound nor governed by the thoughts and actions of others. So here's what I'm thinking. If I make the servo case 1.8mm wider (a dime is about 2mm thick, to give you context), I can completely enclose the brushless motor and do away with the slot. Benefits of doing this extend beyond protecting the electronics. Chief amongst them is better cooling (I know it seems counter intuitive but full contact of the motor can with the aluminum of the middle case is how it really cools best). The question is this. Would you still be interested in a mini if I made it a tad wider, or is this a deal breaker?
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